The Adventures of Bear and Butterfly

Here is a link to a playlist of all our videos from Canada.

On Monday morning we left Alberta for Saskatchewan.  We had a few days to enjoy a real Summer holiday, relaxing at the family cabin by Clearwater lake in Kyle.  We drove through cities with seemingly odd names like “Medicine Hat” and “Swift Current”- didn’t quite get to “Moose Jaw” but I heard that name on the radio.  The First Nation heritage in this area is undeniable.  I dozed throughout the drive but managed to see enough of the landscape- plateaus of mostly empty land, with the odd oil drill here and there and sadly only invisible Bison.  We stopped at a gas station and whilst I washed my hands in the services a lady walked by with a bright coloured parrot perched on her shoulder- amazing!

We paid a visit to Goodwin House at the Saskatchewan Landing Provincial Park, which had an exhibition detailing the ecosystems of the area.  I was surprised to learn that 1.5 million years ago the land was home to camels, mammoths and giant ground sloths. Carolyn showed me her favourite bird and flower (meadow Lark and Prairie Lily, also known as the Western Red Lily).

The South Saskatchewan river passes through this area.  The province’s name (Saskatchewan) is derived from an anglicized version of a Cree word denoting a swiftly flowing river.  The landing served as a historic crossing point for the Plains Indians, who had used it for thousands of years, as well as settlers who began to use it in the late 1800’s to cross over the river to the North.

Outside Goodwin House stood the Red River Cart which was an invention created two centuries ago by the Metis people in the Manitoba area further North.  This cart was very unique in design as the wheels could be removed and then fastened to the bottom of the cart, transforming it into a raft, thus allowing the travelling trades people to cross the river safely.

From Saskatchewan Landing we then came to Kyle, where Brenda pointed out the United Church where Gary and Karen were married, and the house in which Karen grew up in.  It began to drizzle then so we drove around Kinsmen Park where we took in the cement statue of Wally the Woolly Mammoth.  Karen’s father discovered the bones of a Woolly Mammoth as they were unearthed by a scraper blade during road construction in Kyle.

The Road to Clearwater Lake pics

By the time we reached the cabin the rain was really coming in strong, so we went for a drive around the lake, hoping the weather would ease up.  Upon our return, Brenda dashed out to the cabin to retrieve rain-jackets for us and soon we were all unloaded in the cabin, feeling snug by the heater.  The following morning the sun decided to join us, so  I enjoyed a speedy walk around the lake with Brenda whilst Bodra got some time with Carolyn.  Then we headed out to the Beechy Farm.

On our way we stopped at the Kyle cemetery to visit the gravesite of Cyril and Genevieve Howell and also to check out the drive-in across the road.  How thoughtful to provide easily accessible entertainment for those who have passed on!

The farm which had once been home to Carolyn, Gary and Brenda is now a Hutterite colony, so we were only able to gaze at the farm from the car. Judging from all the farm equipment, their completely self-sustained lifestyle must be fairly successful.

We were lucky to notice a cement marker along the side of the road- the only remains of Brenda and Carolyn’s school, “Wistful Vista”.

We next went in search of Beechy’s scenic Sunken Hill- a great adventure involving some off-road driving through farmland.  We spotted a Hutterite hooning around his field on an ATV, but he wasn’t bothered by our appearance.  Sunken Hill was formed fifty years ago, when a hill which had been grazing cattle suddenly dropped, leaving a deep depression the size of a parking lot.  We crossed farmland, passing through a couple ancient gates, following signs to Sand Castles in the hopes it would lead us to Sunken Hill.  Brenda throught she could see the area in the distance, but when we came to our third gate and the road appeared to become more of a trail, we backed off from our hunt.  We found a great view of the South Saskatchewan River, but not the Sunken Hill.

We left the dirt roads behind us as we made our way to Beechy township.  Brenda drove all through the small town and Carolyn and her reminisced about the different people they used to know.

Beechy and Kyle memories pics

On Wednesday morning we dropped Brenda off at a nearby service station where she caught a bus back to Saskatoon.  We spent the next couple of days in idle- reading, watching TV, napping, playing frisbee, walking around the lake and taking pictures of nature.  (I was really chuffed with my pic of a Tree Swallow and sunset on the lake.)  Perfect for a holiday!   Clearwater Lake pics

You have to giggle at Saskatoon seasons- Almost Winter, Winter, Still Winter, and Pothole season.  On mid-day Friday we entered Circle Drive in Saskatoon and soon met up with Brenda, having a good gander around all the different hair-dressing supply outlets.  We visited Brenda’s “Rusholme Beauty Salon” where Bodra received a much needed tidy-up!  In the evening we sat in Brenda’s backyard beneath a Marquee, tucking into our delicious dinner from EE Burittos.  Vasko, Brenda’s partner, joined us and shared the many scented-treats of their garden with me (Chocolate Mint which I had never tasted or heard of before!).

Later that evening, Bodra’s cousin Jamie arrived to take us for a drive around the city.  Sight-seeing in the evening is pretty special, especially when you are in Canadian country which has spectacular skies and sunsets.  Jamie showed us all the different areas of Saskatoon city, the river-side fancy homes with tree-lined streets, Saskatoon University.  We climbed the stairs to the old railway bridge which crosses the South Saskatchewan River where Pelicans wade, and took in a great view of the city.

Then Jamie took us to one of his locals, and we enjoyed a few pints of a tasty Great Western beverage.

On Saturday Jamie took us all out to Paradise Beach aka “Bareass Beach” (it attracts naturists) and the Berry Barn.  The Beach is 25km outside of the city, along Valley Road, but there was no ocean (or nudies), just the South Saskatchewan River with sandy banks.  This river is pretty mighty.  It flows from the Eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains, through cities and farmland, before arriving in Saskatoon, and from there it carries on for more than one thousand kilometres, joining the North Saskatchewan River at the Forks, forty kilometres East of Prince Albert, Saskatchewan.  The South Saskatchewan River originates at the confluence of the Bow and Oldman rivers in Alberta and Montana.  These rivers come together to form the South Saskatchewan River just East of Medicine Hat, Alberta.

The Berry Barn was our final stop for the day- a family-run country-style diner set up inside a barn.  We dined on delicious orchard-fresh berries with our pancakes and waffles.  I was pleased to find my Inunnguaq magnet in their gift shop (yay!).

Before our flight to Harrisburg, we had one last walk along the river with Brenda and Carolyn.  On our walk we noticed that a riverside splash park for toddlers was designed to represent a map of the Saskatchewan river.  Great to see education and fun being united!

On our return to Brenda’s home, Jamie’s girlfriend Cynthia was there with her sweet fluffy dog Trixie, so we were pleased to see them both and say our final farewells.

Saskatoon pics

During our flight to Minneapolis I was fascinated by the aerial view of Canada- really a checkerboard landscape!

Bodra and I left England on Sunday June 14th. We’d kept ourselves pretty busy over the past couple of weeks, so didn’t have time to mentally prepare ourselves for our trip- but I did get most of my things packed nearly a week prior (Bodra still managed to pack more quickly than I). The previous weekend we were in Newforest for the day with Ez, Kim, Alanna and Luke, enjoying a cycle through the forest for Kim’s early 30^th birthday celebrations. It feels so much better having someone to share that giant number with!! Then on Tuesday we went to a Twenty20 match at Lord’s cricket ground- we first watched Netherlands vs. Pakistan then South Africa vs. NZ. Sadly we didn’t have much to celebrate at the end of the match. On Thursday Bodra went to Amsterdam for the day for work and Lauren came to stay the night. We had a good Guitar Hero and cards session, as well as a lovely Mexican inspired dinner- yay! Bodra and I went into London on Saturday to pick up a few gifts from Harrods and then on to Paul & Rachael’s place for his 29^th celebrations.

The flight to Minneapolis was pretty comfortable; we had a fair amount of leg room and I enjoyed more than my fair share of red wine and ice cream. Customs in America are quite strict- we didn’t fill out our declaration form correctly as we had dismissed the word ‘food’ and just focused on looking for the fruit and vegetables. But you do have to declare food, even if it is cookies or jam. The officer gave us a moderate telling-off and finger printed me, but I wasn’t arrested or given a fine which was a relief.

We scoured for dinner in the airport- the food hall seemed particularly unattractive with its toxic fumes of grease and additives filling every space. Our health definitely deteriorated as we passed by. Bodra and I settled for a Mexican styled meal- a far cry from Lauren’s delicious concoctions- I ditched mine after the first mouthful. We passed the time watching ‘Outrageous Fortune’ on the laptop until we were called to our gate. The plane to Calgary was much smaller but luckily we were the only passengers in our row and the arms could be pushed up so I lay down and had a difficult snooze in the squeeze position. I think it was close to 6am in the UK by the time we arrived in Calgary so we didn’t have much energy to share with Bodra’s Uncle Gary who had picked us up. The first thing I noticed about Calgary is every second person seems to be driving truck-like utility vehicles, and the roads are built for them- very wide with multiple lanes even in suburbia.

Gary and Karen had prepared a room especially for us and we instantly felt welcomed and at home. Bo and I enjoyed a much needed sleep-in on Monday morning. We decided to check out the zoo so Bodra worked out our route and we hit the road. We took a bus to 7^th Street West into Calgary city and then hopped on the C Train which took us directly to the zoo. Calgary Zoo is quite impressive- for one thing they do Veggie Burgers at their cafe! There were loads of different creatures on display- Flamingo, Monkey, Condor, Bactrian Camel, Siberian Tiger, Red Panda, Elephant, Peacock, Kangaroo and the Tree Kangaroo, Black Bear and Grizzly Bear, well-fed Prairie Dog (which are like Gophers or Meer Cats- cute fat rodents- nothing like a dog), Moose, Elk, Bison, Porcupine and Rocky Mountain Goat. We were sufficiently inspired to find at least one of these creatures in the wild during our travels.

Calgary Zoo pics

Calgary Zoo vids

In the afternoon, whilst we browsed Gary & Karen’s local supermarket- Sunterra, we discovered that Canadians have an excellent selection of chips, as well as substitutes for Bodra’s diet. Hurrah!!! We returned to Gary and Karen’s and spent the evening chatting with them until it was time to get to the airport to pick up Carolyn and our hire car. Carolyn soon appeared, masked and wheeled in by an air hostess, and announced her bags were not with her- the customs in San Francisco had decided to search her suitcase and didn’t manage to return it to her connecting flight. I thought, hopefully this is all the travel-woes-karma done and dusted.

On Tuesday we hung around in Calgary until Carolyn’s suitcase was delivered and enjoyed a visit from Lorie-Ann, Carolyn’s niece. Then we headed for Banff, leaving Calgary in the rumbling rain. As Bodra drove, I watched long forks of lightning strike down from the sky- very dramatic and awesome! It took a little over an hour to get to Banff, driving on the right hand side of the road of course. We had to pay an entrance fee to get into the park where Banff is located. Driving through the Rockies is pretty cool- mountains of snow-capped rocks bursting out of the earth stabbing at the sky.

Banff is just at the beginning of the Rockies- it didn’t feel like we travelled up at all to get to the village. The Bow River comes through Banff which must make the area more attractive to wildlife. I noticed a large decorative Inunnguaq in someone’s front-yard, which is a structure of rocks which takes on the shape of a man. Karen had shown me her example in her garden so I was quite proud when I recognised one. It seems Inunnguaq are similar to Inukshuk, which is an Inuit name defining a landmark made of rocks (like a cairn) stacked in a particular way. Inukshuk means “something which acts for or performs the function of a person.” Inuksuit (plural) are used for navigation, as a point of reference, a marker for hunting grounds, or as a food cache. (I made it my point to find a magnet inspired by this creation.)

We wandered around the village for a short while then returned to our B&B to check-in. We had managed to get a very cheap room for three at the Tan-Y-Bryn B&B. The hostess Jacqueline Cowen gave us very in depth instructions on every aspect of the B&B and also went into quite heavy detail about her arthritis- clearly enjoying the chance to talk. Once escaping her we grabbed our swimsuits and made our way to the Banff Upper Hot Springs, located near Sulphur Mountain. Not quite as picturesque as we had hoped but we welcomed the chance to soak our plane-weary bones. For dinner we found a Korean restaurant where we introduced Carolyn to Beepbimbap. We had tried to get a table at Nourish, a highly recommended Vegetarian restaurant but they were fully-booked. Luckily they had a table available the following night so we made a reservation. On our way back to the B&B we found a shop called “The Bear & the Butterfly” and promised to visit it before we left Banff.

Banff Beginnings pics

The following day, after filling our tummies with a sugar and bread laden brekkie, Carolyn remained at the B&B whilst Bodra and I went for a hike into Johnston Canyon. We drove out park just outside of Banff. The trail is really well-maintained, with catwalks in some areas. For most of the walk we travelled alongside the river, where the water had gradually carved the canyon out. We crossed the river and ducked through a rock tunnel to reach the Lower falls, thundering away powerfully. I took one very quick photo due to the spray drenching the area- I was concerned the camera would get soaked and I’d have a repeat of our Thailand disaster.

The Upper Falls were much less hazardous, and I was surprised to see small piles of snow nearby the falls. The tan-coloured layer of slippery rock on the wall nearby the falls is covered with a primitive plant called Travertine Algae. This plant gets its carbon dioxide from water rather than air. The spring water, which is inundated with dissolved limestone, seeps out of the rock layers, keeping the cliff face wet. When the carbon dioxide is removed from the water, limestone crystals are created and deposited as ’travertine drapes’ on the rock and algae. Travertine limestone was used to create the Colosseum and aqueducts in Rome, so it is a highly effective natural material!

We tried unsuccessfully to spot a rarely seen Black Swift during the walk- Johnston Canyon is one of the few places where they are known to nest on the rock walls. Perhaps our vision was obscured by the weather, as the rain poured for most of our walk so we were quite saturated, but that’s what raincoats are for, right?- as well as hot cups of tea which we enjoyed at the end of the walk.

Johnston Canyon pics

Bodra and I went for a short drive along Bow Valley Parkway and found Castle Mountain looming out of the clouds. We had our first wildlife sighting nearby on a grass patch where little Prairie Dogs peered out from the ground, searching over their surrounds. On our next stop we had our second sighting by a riverside where Elk were feeding. We also found a sign saying “Bear in area. Proceed with caution.” Apparently a mother Grizzly and her cubs were hunting elk calves. Of course, I thought “Yay! Let’s see a wild bear!” & Bodra said the opposite. I convinced him to explore with me, but then he realised he’d left his wallet in plain view so we retreated. Ho hum!

Back in Banff we grabbed Carolyn and made our way to a late lunch at Boston Pizza- nothing special. Then we returned to Sulphur Mountain to ride the very expensive gondola- $29 CAD each! But the view was well worth it as we could see all the mountain ranges around us. As we travelled up we saw hybrids of white spruce, Engelmann spruce and lodgepole pine, and at the summit we found true Engelmann spruce, whitebark pine, fir and larch. They didn’t appear to be very old judging from their size, but some of the trees were hundreds of years old, their growth being stunted from thin soil, high winds and the desiccating cold. I learnt that the pines use their tightly bunched needles to comb moisture out of low clouds- now you know too!) We watched Golden-mantled Squirrels scurry over the top of the mountain hunting for winter stocks.

Sulphur Mountain pics

For dinner we dined at Nourish- a very satisfying vegetarian feast and well worth the wait! The following day we left Banff for Calgary, via Lake Louise.

The glacial lake was formed 10,000 years ago when glaciers located 7km away melted, leaving rocky debris which dammed the lake. Apparently when ice breaks off the front of the glacier it takes 20 seconds for the booming sound to reach the edge of the lake where we began our walk, near the Fairmont Chateau. Alas, we did not get to experience this, nor sight any Grizzlies despite the area being ‘grizzly bear country’. We took pleasure in our walk around the lake- I found a camouflaged Inunnguaq towards the farthest end of the lake.

Lake Louise pics

We were in Calgary for the next few days, staying with Gary and Karen again and visiting family. On Friday Bodra and I ventured into the city. After grabbing food at Sobeys in preparation for our family feast on Saturday, Gary drove us downtown to Calgary Tower. Bodra and I had decided this would be a good starting point to take in the city.

Built in 1968 the tower stands at 191 metres high- fairly diminutive compared to Auckland’s Sky Tower which reaches 328 metres. The sky was clear gifting us a flawless view of the city from the observation deck. From the multi-media display we learnt that oil was thought to have been formed by Diatoms which are microscopic algae organisms that converted sunlight into energy. I think the gist is they got squished in the earth, thus releasing the stolen suns energy which became oil. We also learnt that over a million people get into their ‘Cowboy duds’ (Western attire) for the ‘Calgary Stampede’. This event was started in 1912 when Guy Weadick envisaged a Wild West Extravaganza better than Buffalo Bills. He convinced the ‘Big 4’ (wealthy Alberta cattlemen) to finance $25,000 each to put on this show for the people and it has been a raging success ever since. The Stampede involves events like agricultural competitions, chuck-wagon races and rodeo. It’s a shame we couldn’t time our holiday to be in Canada during the Stampede as it is meant to be the greatest outdoor show on earth!

We weren’t too sure what to do next so we hit the street heading for Bankers Hall, a shopping atrium which we had viewed from the Tower. A quick glance in revealed shopping wasn’t for us, so then we found ourselves on the main pedestrian mall, wandering past street performers and lunchtime diners. Soon we found ourselves trying to navigate the +15 skyway network, apparently the world’s most extensive pedestrian skywalk system- 16 kilometres in length (10 mi) and including 59 bridges. Walking 4.5 metres above the outside world sounded interesting, but after experiencing a couple dead ends and blocked entries, we abandoned this activity. Our next idea for entertainment also met with a fail- I wanted to see the Devonian Gardens, 2.5 acres of indoor gardens. Once we worked out their location (the entire fourth floor in the shopping centre TD Square) we shortly discovered they are currently closed for renovations.

Disappointment continued as we searched for an advertised vegetarian friendly cafe, which is no longer in TD Square. But we did find tasty Sushi! Energised and motivated again, Bodra suggested we have a look at China Town in the hope we might find some cheap sunnies, but it turned out to be more of a living and working community rather than a shopping district. We found Sien Lok Park in China Town, which led us to Prince’s Island Park- 20 hectares of landscaped and wetland environment in the middle of Bow River. We enjoyed watching the dozens of black squirrels scurrying for peanuts, offered from other park goers.

Calgary pics

Back to Gary and Karen’s for our Weenie Roast night- we were meant to roast the sausages over the outdoor fire but I misunderstood and encouraged a BBQ instead- still just as tasty though! A few more relatives arrived- I met Lorie’s husband Bob who promised me a motorbike ride the next day, Bodra’s cousin Jamie and his partner Cynthia, and Gary and Karen’s sons Blair and Bevan. Bodra’s Aunty Brenda arrived later on in the night. We all had a relaxing evening catching up whilst sitting outside by the fire which Gary kept alight with the Cedar panels he had taken out of Bevan’s basement.

On Saturday morning Blair drove us around Calgary. He showed us Bowness Park where families go for picnics and canoeing along Bow River, and the University of Calgary (we tried to get a look at the Olympic speed-skating Oval ice arena where the 1988 Winter Olympics took place, but unfortunately it was closed despite us being there during it’s opening hours). Blair took us for a walk around quirky Kensington where we devoured cupcakes from the shop Crave and peeked at a mystery warehouse. Apparently no one knows what is going on inside the warehouse- white trucks turn up in the morning but they give no clues as to what is going on. After grabbing a Slurpie (frozen soda drink) from the gas station, we viewed Calgary city from a couple different points.  On our way back to Gary & Karen’s we stopped off at 25A ST SW, the duplex which Bodra’s parents used to live in, with Gary & Karen next door.

More Calgary pics

The family gathering was well underway once we returned, so we became quite busy meeting and greeting relatives and family friends, as well as chowing down.  Lorie and Bob soon arrived so I was whisked off on Bob’s motorbike for an exciting ride along Sarcee and Crowchild Trail (the highways are named after Indian tribes of the area).

Howell family pics

(Bodra’s words 22/06/09)  I wouldn’t have thought we could eat any more after yesterday but that’s just what we did. We agreed to meet Blair and Jamie for breakfast at the Pfanntastic Pannenkoek Haus. It was a Dutch style pancake house that came highly recommended. So Gary, Brenda, my Mum, Jasmin and I, all headed there to meet with Blair, Laura, Lorie, Jamie and Cindy. It turns out we weren’t the only ones to have had the restaurant recommended to us. Being Fathers day there was a large turnout and we had to wait in line for forty minutes to get a table. The wait was worth it though and we quickly tucked into some high quality pancakes. I had a Bananas, Coconut, and Chocolate pancake while Jasmin attempted to devour the ‘Heavenly Delight’ (mostly mandarins and ice cream but with some orange liqueur in a chocolate cup for a bit of kick).

Pancake pics

Breakfast was followed by a trip back to Blair’s for coffee where nobody had any coffee. Bevan and Tara couldn’t join us at breakfast so we then ventured over to their place soon after to check in on their renovations and baby Max. We were all entertained by Max’s antics.

Bevan & Tara’s home

After a long morning of visits we headed back to Gary’s and tried to decide if we should head out to the lake that night or the next day. We opted for the later and so instead took a trip with Gary and Karen to drop off their Camping Trailer at a camp ground they frequent. It was a beautiful spot in the foothills outside of Calgary. We were truly impressed by the location and the immense size of their Trailer. It certainly got me thinking about the possibilities of travelling NZ with mobile luxury.

Quirk Creek pics