Ahoj is Czech for Hello!! Thar be Pirates?

Prague No Comments »

At the end of October, Bodra and I moved into our fourth residence in Reading. We hired a monster of a van, Bodra’s first experience of driving one, also with a column change gear-stick. Squeezing past all the parked cars on our new road proved to be quite a challenge, especially without a rear-view mirror. Somehow we have gone from only having what was in our backpacks and one large box, to having multiple van-loads. There must be extra people secretly living with us, accumulating all this stuff! I certainly remember having harsh words with myself in our first place at Kennet Walk, warning that I must not buy any unnecessary items. Who needs books when there are libraries?

We’re nicely settled in our new place and can only complain about the dribbly shower. Bodra went to Helsinki for work during the first week and I kept myself busy unpacking and cleaning. Paul and Rachael came to stay on our first weekend and taught us the art of the gas stove. There are no markings on the stove so I didn’t really know what to look for to get the oven going. Once it was going (thanks Rachael!) the next question was, how do I know what temperature it will reach? We ended up getting a maintenance guy to check it out, and he’s kindly drawn some markings on the stove face.

Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place Our new place

On that Saturday, Paul and Rachael took us to Leicestershire where Rachael and I watched Bodra drive a TVR and Paul drive a Porsche. Exciting stuff for the boys, but freezing stuff for us! We joined them in a jeep going over a landscape designed to show just what those vehicles can handle- steep inclines, stairways, slushy pools of mud. Our drive back to Reading was far more stimulating, especially when we hit traffic along the M4 motorway so endured the queue by playing Eye-Spy. It’s amazing how much stuff you start to see when you are looking for a clue.

Drivers Dream Driving Experience (24) Drivers Dream Driving Experience (26) Drivers Dream Driving Experience (12)

Drivers Dream Experience

Lauren came to stay the following week, whilst Bodra was away on business in Turin. He had an extra long trip to get there as the airport employees in Turin were striking, so he had to fly to Milan and then train to Turin from there. I had a great time in Laurens company, as always. We discovered the Chinese supermarket nearby, where you can buy industrial sized blocks of tofu and all sorts of strange vegetables. Lauren made some delicious peanut butter cookies, among other yummy vegan treats.

Lauren bakes

Kim and Ezra were our next visitors, and we shared our local Indian takeout with them- Chenai Dosa. Paul and Rachael also suffered the spiciness of Chenai Dosa when they visited, and additionally, Bodra and I had it the first weekend when we moved in. Three times in one month- yes, it is that good!

Bodra and I were in Prague during the middle of November. We stayed at the Sheraton at Charles Square and arrived on a National holiday to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the fall of communism, and the beginning of the Velvet Revolution.

As we had arrived early, our room wasn’t ready, so we went for a walk around the block. Prague is a really beautiful city. The architecture shows a vast array of styles- Art Nouveau to baroque, Renaissance, Cubist, Gothic, Neo-Classical and ultra-modern. The buildings are so well maintained, the streets are clean, people and traffic move around with hardly any stress. I believe Czech people must have a lot of pride for their city.

Praha (05) Obecní d?m (Municipal House)

A crowd had formed along one of the main roads. It seemed like a race was going to happen as we could see the start and finish markers, and also a few strange forms of transport- a giant banana on wheels? A couple stages were also set up, perhaps in preparation for a concert or speeches. We didn’t stick around for the action, as Bodra had to catch up on some work and I wanted a nap.

We walked along the Vltava River, where we saw a man shed most of his clothes and dive in for a swim. It wasn’t exactly a hot day as Bodra and I were both in our jackets, jumpers and beanies. Further along the river we came upon an intriguing building- the Dancing House (Tan?ící d?m) by Vlado Miluni? and Frank Gehry, an example of deconstructivist architecture. It is said to look like a couple dancing, two towers with an unusual, curving shape.

Praha (48)  Vltava River

In the evening I was still feeling very snoozy and hardly enthused to get out and explore, but we went for a small walk in the evening, in search of dinner which we found at a local Tesco’s supermarket. The streets were far more packed with people, but we still had no clue as to what was going on. So we grabbed our groceries and returned to the hotel. The cold weather really zaps my levels of curiosity.

The weather did little to inspire me on Wednesday, so while Bodra went to work, I treated myself to a luxurious day of staying in our room, bathing and reading. Sometimes it is just really nice and comforting to devour a book in one sitting. I’ve begun reading Kim Harrison’s Rachel Morgan series, an urban fantasy involving supernatural themes. The main character is a witch who is a Private Investigator, and uses charms to catch villains. She has a Pixie for a side kick and a Vampire for a room-mate. Light stuff, but action-packed, humorous- very entertaining to read.

For dinner we went out to Lehka hlava - Clear Head vegetarian restaurant. We had a table in a warm orange room with a fish tank. The meal was very satisfying- grilled goat cheese with cranberries and walnuts, served over a mixed green salad, hummus, cheddar quesadilla with jalapenos, guacamole, tomato salsa, sour cream and bulgur risotto with stir-fried tempeh, spring vegetables and sun-dried tomato and peanut pesto. Our bellies were full for nearly £20 together- wholesome, fresh tastiness at a bargain price!

On Thursday I decided I had better do a little bit of adventuring. I don’t like exploring new places on my own, especially after my ridiculous attempts at orienteering in Amsterdam where I basically kept going in the opposite direction to where I wanted, but I had to make the most of being in this historical city. Our room had a lovely big bath so I thought I should find some scented fizzy-bombs to make the most of it. Sure enough Prague has a Lush, so I made my way over to the Palladium- two kilometres from our hotel so an easy stroll. The Palladium is just your usual shopping mall, nothing noteworthy or unique as far as I could see, although I was only focussed on getting the bath bomb. Even with a map and clearly marked streets, I still managed to unknowingly deviate from my planned route, taking in a sweet woodcraft store and ‘Luxor Book Palace’ on Wenceslas Square, the largest bookstore in the Czech Republic. Post-cards, stamps and a couple Christmas gifts achieved!

Praha (07) Prašná brána (Powder Gate)

After Lush I headed over to Old Town Square, once the central marketplace in the 12th century. I sat down by the Jan Hus statue and wrote a few postcards, then carried on to the Metro Station. Jan Hus was an influential Priest and philosopher who became a martyr. He tried to reform the church, and as a result he was burned at the stake.

Praha (15) Týn (Church of Our Lady before Týn)

One of my friends from Christchurch days, Jan Honza Tilinger lives in Prague, so I had arranged to meet him at the Czech Technical University. Honza had organised a screening of a movie about a solar school which he helped to set up in Kargyak, a village at 4200m altitude in the Indian Himalayas. I was able to meet a couple of his friends and his sister and watch the movie. Most of it was in Czech and it showed the construction of the school. It would be amazing to go there one day but the village is very isolated. Flying into Delhi, you would spend 5-10 days just getting to the village, depending on your route, and involving 4-5 days walk. I really admire Honza and his friends; they are very courageous and strong Beings!

After the movie I helped Honza prepare DVD covers for copies of the movie, and then he took me back to his mum’s apartment where we sat chatting with two of his friends, one an architect and the other an engineer. They had some great stories to share with me, as they had both been involved in Surya School. One of them was off to Madagascar the following day to work on an energy project.

I returned to Bodra later that night and after discovering our chosen vegetarian restaurant didn’t have a non-smoking area we relented and had room service. Yay for vegetarian pasta! (I’m kidding.)

Friday was my last chance to explore so I started off by heading towards Vyšehrad Castle, a little over two kilometres from the hotel. I found the cemetery and the Basilica of St Peter and St Paul, but having followed the walls all around, I became quite exasperated as the castle was nowhere to be found! I have since discovered that just because a place is called a castle this doesn’t necessitate the presence of a palace. Castle just means a fortified defensive structure. Yay for learning new things, but boo for no castle…

Praha (33) Church of St. Peter and Paul at Vyšehrad Praha (27) Church of St. Peter and Paul at Vyšehrad

From the non-castle containing castle, I wandered down to Vltava River and crossed a bridge, heading for Pet?ínské (Pet?ín Hill). I had hoped to take the funicular up to the top where an observation tower with the likeness of the Eiffel Tower stands. Unfortunately I had spent all my money on the Metro yesterday and couldn’t find an ATM, so I trudged up the steep hill. Thankfully this led me to discovering the Magic Cavern of Reon Argondian, a place Kim had recommended. I didn’t have any money for admission but the attendant said he would pretend he hadn’t seen me, and let me in. I gave him some Geisha chocolate (my lunch) which pleased him.

Three floors filled with fantasy art! Every wall space held bright paintings showing majickal forests and lakes, unicorns, lizards, Elves, Faerys, crystals… I was virtually alone in the gallery, and able to sit and take in the artwork while listening to relaxing music. Relaxing, that is, until they played the Titanic Theme Song. Urck!

Praha (58) Reon Argondian Praha (64) Reon Argondian Praha (53) Reon Argondian

I thought I would head out towards the Charles Bridge (Karl?v most) which crosses the Vltava river and takes you back over to Old Town. Lucky for me I didn’t have to do this alone as Bodra had just finished work so could meet me there. I wandered down Pet?ín Hill and passed a bunch of souvenir shops and boutiques. Charles Bridge was the first bridge to have been constructed in Prague and is over five hundred years old. Quite a number of statues lined the bridge, along with all sorts of different traders and their kiosks, selling jewellery, caricatures, magnets and water colour landscapes.

Praha (77) Charles Bridge Praha (82) Katedrála svatého Víta (St Vitus Cathedral)

From Charles Bridge we stopped for afternoon tea then trudged up a hill towards Prague Castle, mostly to take in the views of the city, stopping in a couple of Art Galleries along the way. We were able to enter the castle grounds so we walked around St. Vitus Cathedral and exited out the opposite end of the grounds. Back down to Old Town, we stopped for a souvenir print of the seasons by Mucha. Bodra found some Mulled Wine for us and then we began thinking about dinner. Honza had recommended the Indian Jewel so we went there, finding ourselves the only customers (it was very early evening), which was fine as we wanted to be served quickly. A fair meal, but Bodra can cook better. One last stop before heading back to the hotel- we picked up two small bottles of Absinthe. Foul stuff- I couldn’t drink it all as the spirit is a pure gag-fest. Completely non-Faery like!

Praha (95) Hot Wine Praha (88) Me near Prague Castle

Praha (99) Absinthe

Prague pics

After Prague I had the pleasure of catching up with a few friends. The following Monday I met Petra, Ian and their brand new bubby (born at the end of September), Daisy Anastasia Young. I’ll be looking forward to a time when I can visit them in Portishead, in the New Year. I also recently caught up with a friend I made whilst working at Thames Water, Tibor, and his wife Lavinia. We met them for dinner at Wagamamas, and hopefully I’ll be seeing more of them soon.

Meeting Daisy

Last Monday Fat Freddy’s Drop gave a concert at the Hammersmith Apollo in London so Bodra and I made the mission out there. It is always so much more difficult to push ourselves out the door during the week but we figured we deserved some NZ Summer music! We arrived near the end of the last few songs from the opening act, The Electric featuring DJ Vadim- thank goodness for that as they weren’t our cup of tea, just some random teenagers jumping up and down pumping themselves up and basically sounding cliché. I’m sure there is a more accurate way to describe their music, but I’m not that well educated in their style.

Once Freddy’s came on we had a pretty awesome evening with their fantastic music. We were really pleased to see the guitaring of Jetlag Johnson aka Tehimana Kerr become more of a feature in this gig. Ho Pepa aka Joe Lindsay was great to watch as he danced around with his trombone. The only turn-off was the lighting- we were seated in the circle and from there it was like driving into oncoming traffic with their brights on for the first couple of songs. We caught up with Jono before we left as well; he was seated near us and spotted us as we were leaving. Jono should be joining us for dinner in the New Year so we can find out what he has been up to and meet his girlfriend Jenna.

Bodra and I thought it would be a good idea to get our Dry Suit diving license as we can expect the ocean to be cold in NZ, and hypothermia isn’t much fun. So we had a pool session with the guys from Hydrodive and on Sunday we went out to Wraysbury Lake to do the Open Water aspect of the license. The suit is very well insulated, although Bodra managed to get water in his boots. You still wear a BCD vest, but you mostly rely on the Dry Suit for buoyancy control. We wore hoods and gloves, but getting into the water proved the gloves to be far from insulating. Not sure how cold the water was, but it certainly felt icy around my face and fingers.

Dry Suit Diving Dry Suit Diving Dry Suit Diving Dry Suit Diving Dry Suit Diving

I was a bit panicked initially, just some funny things floating around in my head, but I managed to calm myself and descend. Things were going okay for me, we went down to 8 metres and I felt the suit pinching a bit but you just add in some air to release that sensation. We demonstrated fin pivots on a platform near the bottom of the lake and then followed our guide further along. There wasn’t much to see in the lake, just weeds and maybe a cement mixer, some old vehicle carcasses. I forced myself not to hold Bodra’s hand- I didn’t want him compensating my buoyancy again. We began to go up an incline and when we reached the top I thought I was ok, until I felt myself continue to ascend. This is a scary feeling as you kind of get it drummed into your head that you need to be able to control how fast you ascend. At that time I couldn’t, all I could feel was my body rising, even though I was leaking air out of the valve in my left wrist and could feel the suit pinching. I’m guessing it was just the air inside my body that had expanded and caused me to float up? Anyway, the experience had me pretty shaken so I decided to forgo the second dive. Bodra managed to pass his license and hopefully I will too with a little more time.

Dry Suit Diving Dry Suit Diving Dry Suit Diving

It seems like last week was the week of awards! Bodra was awarded a trip to Cannock (just kidding- that was for work). We found out that our friend Paul won an award for the Most Effective Operations Management Initiative which sounds very mighty and impressive. Our nephews at Dilworth also had their school achievements acknowledged- Hemi and Te Aue were both made monitors for next year, Hemi won an award for Technology I believe, and Kowhai won a $500 music award which he has spent on a new white guitar. I can’t wait to meet these bright, young beings soon!

Next week Bodra will be going to Tel Aviv for work. We haven’t got too much planned between now and our trip to NZ, just saving our pennies so we can do lots of neat things back home. Christmas will be a fairly easy one, having dinner with David and Olga at a nearby restaurant. Paul will be joining us for New Years and I guess our celebrations will be focussed around the new 47inch LCD TV dominating our lounge. Finally I understand why Russell has been praising HD so much!

Paris Je T’aime… mais pas vraiment!

Paris No Comments »

(26th October)  I’m up late tonight as I’m trying to make it a habit of switching our washing on at 11:30pm to cash in on the lower rates for electricity. We’ve been getting ready for our move over the month and I just discovered how to read the meter for electricity. In the past the electric company have been making estimates for our usage, but since I gave them an accurate reading we have been shocked at just how much more we consume. So now I’m trying to do the big stuff when it is being charged at a lower rate. Fun stuff aye?

Last Tuesday evening, Logan; an old friend from high-school years; came to stay with Bodra and I.  On Wednesday I showed him around all the fabulous sights of Reading (a couple of pubs, the high street and the river) and on Thursday our trio escaped to Paris!  We caught the Eurostar from St Pancras Station in London- a mostly efficient and relatively comfortable journey, but I really wish they would make the tunnel more picturesque. Surely the tunnel walls could be a good environment to set up some kind of hypno-therapeutic projection- subliminal images of Eiffel Tower trinkets perhaps, to boost the Algerians peddling profits?

There is a spider racing along the edge of the carpet by the wall near me. I spied it earlier this evening whilst we were watching ‘Dexter’. They are such industrious creatures… but I really do hope it won’t intrude our room tonight as we sleep. It is said you will swallow a spider at least once in your life during your sleep, although I don’t have any fear of being the victim as Bodra is the one who always has his mouth wide open. Being a bigger person I guess his nostrils are ineffective in drawing enough oxygen to keep him going at night. I would put the spider outside, if only that meant not having it in close proximity to my skin. It is getting colder too and I wouldn’t want the spider catching a cold.

Once at Gare du Nord, Bodra and Logan tackled sussing out getting to the correct Metro station, which involved a really, really long walk on multiple levels, through many ticket-checking-gates and up and down many flights of stairs. Luckily the station wasn’t terribly crowded so it wasn’t too stressful of a transition. Of course, whilst waiting for the boys to suss our metro tickets, I was approached by one of those gypsy women so commonly found in these European cities. She asked if I spoke English and then held up a paper with a hand-written paragraph. I smiled politely and shook my head, then made my eyes hard as I cut her off with “Not interested.” Bodra and I recently watched a documentary about Romanian Gypsy’s and as harsh as this may seem I truly have no sympathy. It is a vile way of bringing a family up, and there are always other options. I won’t ever affirm blatant begging as a possible choice. Busking on the other hand- definitely! Everyone can do something to entertain another human being.

After a smooth ride on the metro we were at Pigalle station and soon found our hotel- Victor Masse. We checked in then squeezed into an anorexic lift to get to our room on the sixth floor- top floor! The lift only went as far as the fifth, so we endured a little bit of luggage-dragging again. Our room proved to be very basic but clean, with three teeny single beds lined up against one wall, and a fair sized bathroom with suspect-coloured water. From our windows which we could fully open out, we could see across roof tops and down into the alley behind the hotel.

We set-off to explore the Montmartre (Mount of Martyrs) area, passing cafes, bars and parlours. I noticed a sign saying ‘Butte Montmartre’ so I thought we should follow that.  Shortly after we learnt that butte means hill.  We made our pilgrimage, climbing up dozens of steps (we didn’t notice the funiculaire) but it was worth the work-out as we had reached the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur.  A lady was singing “I Dreamed a Dream” nearby (not Susan Boyle), with a modest crowd around her.  Hundreds of tourists enjoying the views of Paris from the highest point of the city.  The basilica is fairly new- built between 1875 and 1919- and is dedicated to the sacred heart of Christ.  We wandered into the basilica (yay for free activities) and were amused by the monitors who were sternly telling disobedient tourists to delete their photos of the interior of the basilica and then firmly instructing them to get out.  I didn’t dare to take any pictures, this seemed sacrilegious anyway as we were in a holy place and in the presence of nuns.

Paris Je T'aime (02) Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

We continued strolling through the lanes of the old village for a while, soon buzzing over a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower in the distance, then passing the small church of St-Pierre, one of the oldest in Paris having been consecrated in 1147.  BUT this is not one of those ABC tours!  Just near the church is the Place du Tertre, the summit square.  Street artists were set-up around the perimeter of the square with their paintings of celebrities (Angelina Jolie appeared to be a favourite) and Parisian scenery on display.  Some artists were working on portraits and caricatures of paying tourists.

The rest of our walk took in views of the northwards town St-Denis, past the oldest surviving cabaret in Paris the Lapin Agile/ Agile Rabbit (where artists such as Picasso and Modigliani once went for entertainment- we weren’t all that interested in French songs, poetry and comedy so didn’t take in a show) and the Montmarte vineyard.  We began to descend down rue Lepic, passing a restaurant with a massive windmill as it’s symbol.  Mills have a place in Montmarte as they were used to grind flour for making bread, or gypsum for the famous plaster of Paris.

Paris Je T'aime (12) Moulin de la Galette

It began to drizzle a bit so we it seemed opportune to think about our tummies, finally relenting to pizza at an Italian restaurant.  Logan was pretty disatisfied as for some strange reason his pizza came with an egg on the top.  But the Peroni beer was cold and tasty.

We made our way down to Place Blanche and the Moulin Rouge was lit up with crowds hanging about outside.  At £80 for dinner and a show we didn’t really feel the desire to tick that glitzy activity off, so instead we found a wine shop where Logan bought a cheap bottle of red wine- Bordeaux maybe.  We settled ourselves on a park bench on the Boulevard de Clichy and drank out of plastic cups whilst people watching and chatting.  Classy!

Paris Je T'aime (16) Moulin Rouge

(Written on the 4th of November)  On Friday morning we breakfasted on bread and pastry- baguette, pain au chocolat and apricot.  Then we hopped on the Metro towards the 20th arrondissement where Cimetière du Père-Lachaise is located, the largest cemetery (44 hectares) in the city of Paris.  This may seem a relatively morbid activity for a tourist, however, the cemetery holds the corpses of numerous famous people from history and the arts.  Mostly famous to Parisians, like Héloïse and Pierre Abélard, sweethearts whose love was not accepted and so they were separated only to be reunited in death.  Oscar Wilde lies there too, as does Jim Morrison, whom we visited.  The cemetery was very peaceful, with lots of walkways and alleys lined with trees, tombs and cenotaphs, some incredibly ostentatious.  Stray cats wandered around the area too and I enjoyed a cuddle with a ginger cat.

Paris Je T'aime (20) Cimetière du Père-Lachaise- JDM RIP Paris Je T'aime (26) Cimetière du Père-Lachaise Paris Je T'aime (23) Cimetière du Père-Lachaise Paris Je T'aime (27) Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

We continued our journey of the dead by heading back to the Metro and riding over to Denfert-Rochereau station in the 14th arrondissement, where Les Catacombes can be found.  There weren’t too many people about and once we finally figured our where the entry was located, a sign on the door stopped us dead in our tracks.  The catacombs had been temporarily closed.  Apparently someone had entered the catacombs from an archaic tunnel and tipped over numerous stacks of human bones, scattering them so that the path through the tunnels was deemed impassible.  They are still closed today.  Boo!

As we were nearby, we thought we would stroll over to l’Observatoire, a centre for research in astronomy, but this also turned out to be closed for the day.  It just wasn’t our luck!  So our next plan was to head for the Luxembourg gardens which thankfully was prepared for our visit.  We entered through the relatively small Jardin du Marco Polo which we had mistaken for our destination, but it was still very pleasing with it’s fountain and chest-nut trees.

Paris Je T'aime (31) Fontaine des Quartre-Parties-du-Monde

Luxembourg gardens is a 23-hectare park, backdrop to the Palais du Luxembourg which houses the upper house of French parliament.  Logan, Bodra and I wandered through the park, spotting statues of animals, mythological scenes and historically famous French people.  The palace has a large pond in front of it, with dozens of people sitting on chairs around the perimeter, reading newspapers and chatting.  It would be an ideal place to catch some sun, but for us the skies were concrete-coloured and cloudy.

Paris Je T'aime (35) Jardin du Luxembourg Paris Je T'aime (36) Jardin du Luxembourg

From the gardens we headed over to the Latin Quarter of Paris, where we found Le Panthéon and were accosted by very willful mute petitioners attempting to raise funds for the deaf.  Not far away from Le Panthéon we glanced another view of the Eiffel Tower as we looked down Rue Soufflot.  We passed outdoor booksellers as we crossed the Seine river and entered Île de la Cité, where Paris was founded.  Soon we stood before the medieval cathedral Notre-Dame de Paris.  It took nearly two centuries of construction (from 1160 -1345) before the cathedral was complete.  We had a quick peek into the cathedral and then began the hunt for dinner.

Paris Je T'aime (51) Logan and Bodra at Notre Dame de Paris

Quickly appeased at an Indian restaurant, we made our way to the Eiffel Tower.  As we queued up we noticed a sign appear telling us that they weren’t selling tickets for the top deck anymore.  We hoped this would be a temporary situation so we stayed in the queue and soon rode the lift to the second platform.  It was a perfectly timed visit for the tower as we got to see Paris by daylight, and then having queued again for top floor tickets and then the lift, once we had reached  the top floor the night sky had settled and all the city lights were on.  It’s fantastic having the contrast between day and night, but monuments such as the Arc du Triomphe really do look far more spectacular when lit up.

Paris Je T'aime (54) Tour Eiffel

We didn’t use the stairs at all on the Tower, having spent the majority of the day wandering around.  Once we had returned to the ground we found the area had been transformed.  The tower was now illuminated and a light-show played out, flashing green, blue, pink, purple lights and beaming search-lights from the tip.  Loud, pumping music was being blasted and suddenly we were surrounded by Algerian men shaking Eiffel tower trinkets.  It felt like we had entered a festival but they were just trying to sell us souvenirs.

Paris Je T'aime (84) Arc de Triomphe Paris Je T'aime (70) Jardin du Luxembourg Paris Je T'aime (75) Snort at Tour Eiffel Paris Je T'aime (91) Me at Tour Eiffel Paris Je T'aime (82) Paris

On Saturday morning Bodra and I got on a train and headed out to Epinay-sur-Seine to visit Bodra’s Step-Grandmother, Marie Louise.  We walked past homes which appeared to be the inspiration for fairy tales.

Paris Je T'aime (94) Epinay-sur-Seine Paris Je T'aime (97) Epinay-sur-Seine

Marie-Louise invited us into her home, an apartment in a large block.  The surfaces of her living room had piles of books and papers, all easy-to-hand.  We settled into lounge-chairs and chatted for over an hour.  Marie-Louise told us about her time in England, showing us a calendar her friend had sent her with photographs of various villages.  Bodra and I are now encouraged to visit Cheltenham one day.  Marie-Louise also told us about her country home in Maignelay, which she hopes to sell as it is rather derelict now.

Bodra and I returned to Paris city centre, and headed for Clichy where Bodra had read about a vegetarian restaurant called “Joy In Food”.  Sadly for us the proprietors appear to be lazy hippies as it wasn’t open.  So instead we went for a fairly long ramble down all sorts of streets, past open-air food markets and finally giving in to Lebanese.  Vegetarian mezze plate is always a welcome meal!

Back to Victor Masse to reconnect with Logan.  For the afternoon’s entertainment we decided to take in Paris’s aquatic life at CineAqua which was open until 8pm.  The blurb in the lonely planet had described it as ‘phenomenal’ and ‘ambitious’ and I was hoping to see a cuttlefish or leafy sea-dragon again, my highlights from the aquarium in Lisbon.  So we caught the Metro over to Trocadéro, to discover that the aquarium was closed!  Drat!!  But nevermind, we enjoyed more views of the Eiffel Tower from the Palais de Chaillot.

Paris Je T'aime (100) Tour Eiffel

We strolled back along the Seine river, and stumbled upon the Photoquai photo festival- an outdoor photography exhibition.  I was particularly moved by Gohar Dashti’s portrayal of a newly married couple in Iran.  Daniela Edburg also had an imaginative idea of a candyfloss-like-cloud attack.

Dinner was on our minds again so we headed to St Germain, going past Les Invalides which holds the tomb of Emperor Napoléon.  To entertain ourselves along the way we purchased beer and a vinegary-wine from a convenience store and drank along the way.  We finally settled for Capracotta, Italian!  Bodra introduced Logan to Penne Arabiatta and I enjoyed my mushroom pasta dish.  Logan chose a fairly yummy wine for us- a Chianti Classico, 2006 Poggio Ai Mori by San Donatino.

The next morning we wandered over to the Arc de Triomphe, and then returned to CineAqua for a look at the fishies… they had a few species of very vibrant weenie tropical fish but nothing of any special note, definitely not worthy of the adjectives ‘ambitious’ or ‘phenomenal’.  Our tummies were really grumbly as we had sadly discovered that supermarkets remained closed on Sunday, indeed, many shops and restaurants appeared to either open much later on in the day or not open at all.  We stopped at one cafe along the way but were deeply unimpressed by their extravagant prices for simple crepes and coffee.

Paris Je T'aime (119) Arc de Triomphe Paris Je T'aime (121) Flamme de la Liberte- The Flame of Liberty

We passed the Flame of Liberty, marking the area where Princess Diana died.  Someone (Laurent Thiers) had scrawled a message asking for the monument to be removed as it was a symbol of the Illuminati.  We caught the Metro over to Opéra station, as the Musée du Parfum Fragonard was nearby, but of course, this was closed!  So instead we miserably found ourselves at the American Dream restaurant, garish with it’s zillions of neon-lit signs, cheezy ’80’s glam rock videos and far from decent meal.  But it filled the hole.

We plodded back to Pigalle and had a last wander around Basilique du Sacré-Cœur and the surrounding area.  The afternoon sun had come out so we sat on steps below Sacré-Cœur and I wrote postcards whilst the fullas enjoyed their cool beer.

Paris Je T'aime (128) Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

So, very happy to have ticked off Paris now.  I may return one day- I’d like to do a tour with the impetus of trying to spot as many of the Space Invaders that have been placed around the city, and preferably visiting again in another season.  We’d also like to explore other areas of France too, it would be wonderful to go to Maignelay and see Marie-Louise’s country house, and also to see the Agoust Sabot Tomb in Mourmelon-le-Grand.  Bodra would like to go across the Millau Bridge which is one of the highest bridges in the world and can leave a driver feeling like they are travelling through the clouds.  I’d also like to see the Paleolithic cave paintings in the Lascaux caves.  & then we’ve always wanted to do a cycling or walking tour through the countryside too!

Paris Je T'aime (13) Invader at Rue Lepic Paris Je T'aime (108) Invasion at Rue De L'Ancienne Comedie, 6 eme Arr., St. Germain Paris Je T'aime (107) Invasion at Rue De L'Ancienne Comedie, 6 eme Arr., St. Germain

Paris pics

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